Military cut trews without side seam

This is the Kennedy Ancient tartan from which we are making trews without side seams.

 The pattern system used derives from a side seam draft used to make Military Overalls.

This is a similar system used by J P Thornton and dates from around 1916.

These Trews do not have waistbands and are cut in the plain top style to be worn with braces.



The trouble with only having one leg seam is that all the shaping is done on the inside. This leads to a very shapeless leg which is uncharacteristic of Trews.

The Secret is Ironwork.

This is a skill used by traditional Bespoke Tailors to create the shape of a seam where no seam is present.

This picture illustrates before and after the ironwork is done.

Most makers miss this stage out and this is why it is hard to find nicely cut Trews without a side seam.

Trews basted for fitting.