Tartan Trousers made from the Douglas Green Muted Tartan from House of Edgar.
These are crafted in our own workroom and cut with the prominent colour of the tartan down the crease on the front and back (if practical). This follows the colour regulations used in military trews, where regiments stated which colour the stripe on the crease had to be. It is a practice not often followed because of the extra cloth it takes but we feel the symmetry it gives is well worthwhile.
We draft a pattern built to the measures of each customer which is stored for future orders. Also we build proper inlays to allow the garment to be eased in the future if necessary. (Future proofing)
Proper Military Parade and Mess Trews have a higher rise (body depth) and are also cut higher at the back to be worn with braces.
This Tartan is the Buchanan Ancient again from House of Edgar. It is a bit more challenging to cut because the pattern is one way. We chose to take the dark line down the crease or we would have one yellow crease and one orange crease. It also took a lot of care to get the pattern to match at the seat seam because again a yellow running into orange would offend the eye.
Some regiments wore Trews with no side seams, this is quite good for us because it uses a lot less cloth! But because all the shaping is done on one seam they are cut a lot more open in the legs. So from a tailoring point of view we need to do a lot more shrinking and stretching to correct the leg shape.
The effect of the check without a side seam is quite different, I will try to post some pictures of a future order.